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Hey, it’s Jenessa.

In today’s issue:

• Deep Dive: The Bezel Fail That Made Me Want to Scream—And What You Can Learn From It...

• DEEP DIVE

From Wobbly Bezels to Pro Settings in 3 Steps

Not long ago, I fell down a TikTok rabbit hole and landed on a post that stopped me cold.

User @magpie.chats sent her ring to a jeweler to have the bezel re-worked because there was a nick in it.

What she got back? A wobbly, uneven bezel and a visibly chipped gemstone.

Let that sink in.

Not only was the bezel poorly executed—the stone was damaged in the process, and the jeweler dared to return it anyway.

Setting aside the ethics for a moment, this post hit a nerve. Because here's the truth, most people won't say out loud:

It takes serious skill to get a smooth, even bezel that hugs the gem perfectly without cracking it.

But here's the good news:

If you've ever struggled with bezel setting, I've got a technique that will change how you approach it forever.

It's a simple DIY tool combined with a game-changing method that was taught to me years ago—and now I'm passing the torch to you.

Read on and I'll walk you through exactly how it works, step-by-step, so your bezels come out clean, tight, and professional—even on your most delicate stones.

The Tool You Can't Buy (But Can Easily Make)

First, you'll need a tool that doesn't exist in any catalog.

Don't worry, it's easy to make.

I make mine from broken carbide burrs—specifically, these from Panther. You can also use an old HSS bur, but carbide keeps its polish way longer.

I originally used these Panther burs for cutting the "U's" in castle settings (missed that article? Check it out here).

They're amazing because they cut cleanly, and once they break (as they always do), I reshape them into custom tools for other projects.

For this bezel technique, imagine a flathead screwdriver with a rounded, burnisher-like top. That's your tool. I make them in different sizes depending on the stone size.

The Technique That Changes Everything

Here's where most jewelers go wrong:

In a traditional bezel setting, you seat your stone, hammer the outer bezel wall down until the stone is tight, then polish the thin inner edge that touches the stone.

My technique flips this on its head.

You start the same way, but here's the game-changer: you also hammer the inner edge during the stone setting process.

The Exact Step-by-Step Process:

1. Start by hammering the outer bezel wall about 50% down. The stone should be relatively secure, not wiggling around, but not fully tight yet.

   

2. Switch to your rounded screwdriver tool and hammer the inner edge of the bezel until a small lip starts to form along the inside.

   

3. Continue alternating between hammering the outer and inner edges until the stone is completely secure and the inner metal lip gently touches the top of the stone.

   

This back-and-forth approach gives you two huge advantages:

The best part?

That slow back-and-forth pressure creates a distinct lip on the inner bezel that reflects light beautifully, giving you a gorgeous, crisp inner flash after you finish with a graver or rubber wheels.

You can clearly see the bright cut inner bezel in this work from one of my favorite jewelry studios, Lado's out of NSW Australia. They do the most amazing hand fabrication work I've ever seen…

Here's the same technique I used for a half bezel/modified bezel setting for Knox Jewelers:

Your Next Steps

This technique has saved me countless hours of frustration and prevented more damaged stones than I can count.

The key is patience—don't rush the back-and-forth process. Going 'fast and furious' (as my mentor would say) is a surefire way to crack your gems.

Try this method on your next bezel setting project and watch the difference it makes. Your bezels will look more professional, and your stones will thank you.

I'd love to hear how it goes! Hit reply and let me know when you try this technique in your work. Did it solve your wobbly bezel problems? Any questions about the process?

That's a wrap!

Until next time, let’s continue creating jewelry people can’t live without!

P.S. If you found this helpful, forward it to another jeweler who might be struggling with bezel setting. We're all in this together!