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Hey, it’s Jenessa.

In today’s issue:

• Deep Dive: Why a Castle Setting Is a Bridal Favorite (And How to Do It Right)...

•DEEP DIVE

How to Castle Set Diamonds

The castle cut style gets its name from the U-shaped cuts and prongs, which resemble the tops of castles.

Similar to a pavé setting, it has delicate prongs and minimal metal around the diamonds, but what sets it apart is the open “U” shape along the side face, which maximizes sparkle.

It’s a sought-after setting style in bridal jewelry, and I made a short “how-to” video…

For all the tools, links, and extra details, keep reading below…

Step 1: Prep the Ring

Removing all traces of casting skin is one of my top priorities.

I clean all the hardest-to-reach intersections using a carbide onglette graver to remove any remaining casting skin.

Step 2: Drill Your Pilot Holes

Next, I drill the pilot holes where the diamond openings will be.

I start by drilling each opening with a small ball bur and gradually increase in size until I’m about 0.2mm under the actual stone diameter to prevent overcutting while leaving room to cut the diamond's seat.

Step 3: How to Size Your U-Cut

Use this simple formula to determine the “U” size:

Stone diameter × 70% = maximum bur or graver size.

In this example, my stones are 1.5mm, so 70% gives me about 1.05mm—that’s the largest size bur I’ll use for the U-cut.

Panther tungsten carbide cylinder burs are my go-to because they cut at high polish and save time—you don’t have to sharpen a graver. When they wear down, I repurpose them into splitters or setting tools.

You can also achieve the U-cut with a ball bur or an onglette graver. Just cut at a slight angle so the bevel catches and reflects light, adding brightness and dimension.

Step 4: Cutting between prongs

I find that the same bur used to cut the “U” cut tends to be the same one you can use to cut between prongs.

Step 5: Stone setting

Once everything is cut and polished, I set the diamonds by cutting the seats with a hart bur.

I use an old beading tool to level each diamond, then split the prong with a carbide splitter to securely hold the stone.

Once all the diamonds are in place, I use a beading tool to round and tighten the prongs. I work across opposite corners to keep each stone level and securely set.

Step 6: Bright cut the side face to define the prongs

This step is crucial to getting a high-level product.

I use a 70-degree carbide graver to cut between the prongs to create a tapered bright cut that starts narrow and flares slightly.

This cut defines the shape of each prong and frames each diamond.

Step 5: Set the Center Stone

The goal is to bring the prongs to a pre-polished finish before cutting the seat for the center stone. I remove any remaining casting skin and soften the bright cuts using fine sandpaper wrapped around spring steel or cut into strips to match the shape I need.

I start by cutting the top portion of the seat with a diamond bur, ensuring the stone placement is correct and level. Then, I use a heart bur to cut the lower portion of the seat.

Once the seat is perfect, I taper the prongs with the diamond wheel and set the stone using a small channel lock, gently bringing the prongs down while constantly checking for levelness.

Once the stone is about 80% set, I shape the prongs into a claw-style tip for a sharp, elegant finish. Then, I hammer down the final 20%, which helps eliminate flashing over the top of the stone.

After one last polish, you’re left with a timeless castle-set diamond ring! This skill is a must-have for any bench jeweler working in bridal.

That's a wrap!

Let me know if you have any questions or try this setting style out.

Until next time, let’s continue creating jewelry people can’t live without!