Unpopular Opinion:

Not Every Ring Needs a Gallery Rail

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In today’s issue:

  • Our Deep Dive: Gallery Rail Hacks — Smarter Designs That Don’t Block the View

DEEP DIVE

Are Gallery Rails a Must-Have or Totally Optional? Let’s Settle It…

I love the “scroll hole time suck” that is TikTok.

Compared to Instagram—where it feels like everyone’s dressed up for a photo shoot—TikTok is like chilling in your sweatpants.

It’s casual, weird, and full of people who don’t take themselves too seriously—and that’s why I’m into it.

When you’re just starting to create content and put yourself out there, it helps to have a low-pressure, laid-back space to build your confidence.

The other day, I came across a TikTok from a jewelry designer talking about gallery rails.

According to her, every ring needs one. She said it was the first thing she learned at GIA, calling it “Jewelry Making 101.”

If you’re unfamiliar, a gallery rail is a small metal ring visible in most prong settings that sits just beneath the stones. You can’t see it from the top view, but it plays a key role in keeping the setting stable and reducing the risk of diamonds coming loose.

Image credit: ChatGPT-40

That’s an important job, and I understand where she’s coming from.

Gallery rails are helpful, especially for larger stones or trickier cuts like cushions and sapphires.

But it got me thinking… is a gallery rail a requirement for all settings?

Quick disclaimer: I’m not a GIA graduate, but I’ve had the privilege of working with many talented artists who are.

GIA is a tough and highly respected program, and the jewelry designer’s points are completely valid.

My professional jewelry-making career began in 2006 when a brave 20-something version of myself loaded her Toyota Camry and moved from the Midwest to the West Coast to study industrial design.

I somehow managed to land a job at the largest custom jewelry studio in the nation, Green Lake Jewelry Works.

There, I spent seven years learning everything I could from some of the industry’s top professionals.

And guess what? Twenty years later, I’m still in the jewelry industry.

I’ve managed custom studios, trained designers, and currently work as a professional jeweler.

So yes, I believe in strong, thoughtful design—but I’ve also learned there’s more than one way to create a beautiful, lasting ring.

Sometimes, rigid “rules” can get in the way of creativity. A full gallery rail can block one of the most beautiful parts of a ring…

The through-finger view.

You know—that quick glimpse where you catch the diamonds crown, pavilion, and culet all in one peek?

It’s like building a beach house and putting all the windows on the side facing the street. Why block the best view?

So here are some innovative ways to skip the gallery rail—without sacrificing structure:

1. Run the rail north-south, not all the way around.

This keeps the prongs steady while opening up that gorgeous view underneath the stone. This design by Green Lake Jewelry Works is a great example of a north-south support bar.

Image and Design: Green Lake Jewelry Works

2. Build thicker, tapered prongs.

This simple and classic ring from Knox Jewelers (the custom studio where I work) is one of their best sellers. The setting is completely open, with no gallery rail, and the center stone remains fully visible. Instead, it’s secured with tapered prongs that thicken toward the base and provide stability.

Petite by Knox Jewelers. Image and Design: Knox Jewelers

3. Regular maintenance > gallery rails.

The real key to keeping stones secure? Insurance and yearly checkups. Rings are like cars—they need a little love to stay in top shape. And it’s our job as jewelry professionals to ensure clients know that.

Some designers always use gallery rails, while others don’t. It depends on the store’s standards and the kind of risk it’s comfortable with.

There’s no single “right” answer here—it’s about understanding the trade-offs and making the right call for the piece.

So here’s my question for you…

What are your thoughts on gallery rails? I’d love to know!

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Please take the poll and see the results in real time to find out how other jewelry professionals are approaching this in their businesses.

Until next week, let’s continue creating jewelry people can’t live without!

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