Hey, it’s Jenessa.

In today’s issue:

• Deep Dive Op-Ed: Why Herco’s Sale Still Stings: A Loss for Curation in the Jewelry Industry

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•DEEP DIVE OP-ED

Reflecting on the Sale of Herco: The End of an Era

On January 27, 2023, I was casually checking emails when I opened one from Herco with the subject line: Thank you and farewell!

My heart sank. Farewell? What do you mean, farewell?

For over 20 years in the custom fine jewelry industry, Herco has been my favorite supplier.

Founded in 1979 by Reuven Itelman, this family-run San Francisco business was renowned for its high-quality jewelry, sold exclusively to the trade.

I was introduced to Herco during my first design job on the West Coast at the nation's largest custom jewelry studio, Green Lake Jewelry Works. That's where I saw my first Herco catalog, filled with thoughtfully curated, timeless jewelry pieces.

Since we custom-made every piece in-house, we primarily turned to Herco for their unique, high-quality chains—arguably the best supplier in the country.

My first "adult" jewelry purchase was a 30-inch, 14k rose gold oval-linked Herco chain.

Its sturdy design and versatile length make it the perfect foundation piece for a fine jewelry collection. It's elegant, buildable, and wearable in four different ways.

To this day, I recommend it to anyone interested in investing in a buildable fine jewelry collection (you can read that article here).

The farewell email announced Reuven's retirement after 43 years and the sale of Herco to Quality Gold, effective immediately.

It's the end of an era, I thought.

Respectfully, Quality Gold is not known for curation.

They're a giant in the jewelry industry, delivering catalogs the size of Bibles in annual 30-pound shipments, showcasing an endless array of wholesale products.

It's not bad—just the opposite of what Herco represented.

According to Rapaport, before the acquisition, Herco's petite catalog, at just 155 pages, generated over $25 million in revenue in 2022. Although the terms of the sale remain private, it's safe to assume Reuven and his family are enjoying the fruits of their labor—and rightly so.

But what about the future of the Herco brand?

As anticipated, that beautifully curated "salad" of a catalog has grown significantly over the years. The once-slim 155 pages expanded to 300 pages in 2024 following the acquisition, and for 2025, it has ballooned to a supersized 350 pages.

My question is this: Are the growing number of options improving your jewelry business?

One key lesson I've learned in my 20-year custom jewelry career is that more options don't always lead to better sales.

In luxury, overwhelming choices can paralyze clients and erode trust. People want expertise, not an avalanche of options.

They want to feel guided, supported, and understood like being gently led out of the rain and wrapped in a warm sweater. Not left to sort through an endless array of decisions.

That may be why I still feel the loss so deeply. Herco, with its family-run legacy, was a brand that only showcased the best. It didn't overwhelm- it inspired.

And now, we're all left standing in the rain. 🌧️

THAT’S A WRAP

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Until next time, let’s continue creating jewelry people can’t live without!